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Look Closely at Dries Van Noten's Fall Collection.

     

BY DAVID TAYLOR

I always included a side trip into Bergdorf Goodman or Barneys during a day spent visiting the world-class art galleries in New York City.

After pausing at the jewelry counter to admire the fine craftsmanship, exquisite jewels, and innovative design I ascend to the designer floors to experience the sophisticated amalgamations of divine prints, textures, and opulence that designer Dries Van Noten whirls into exceptionally beautiful frocks. With a single vision the designer can employ simple contrasting insets that replay the geometry of a silhouette and then mix his compositions with large color blocks, boldly graphic prints, and luxurious flourishes that include fur appointments and shiny embellishments to create his signature clash of sheer refinement.

At his very well received Winter 2011/2012 show the designer';s introduced a night for day theme in which the accents of sparkle are intermixed into the mosaic canvases. From stunning over coats and a muted gold suit complimented by fur-lined lapels to shiny jacquard jackets, the collection is always feminine and lovely. I desperately want to see the drop waist, multi-print, long dresses on the red carpet – they are stunningly crafted and colorful as well as being delicately fluid.

The show opened with an optical-art play on textures and the graphic black and white ensemble signaled all in attendance to direct their attention to the runway. With each step and turn the models revealed special details in each of the perfectly tailored outfits. While references abound in the designer oeuvre they are too numerous to mention and because each is a part of the mosaics they meld to create timeless pieces that celebrate a certain joie de vive for women of all ages. Even in his most quiet looks the designer uses complimentary textures, and often very subtle asymmetry, to infuse an elegant femininity that is as individual for each wearer as his wildly successful mélanges are in their construction.

The Belgium born designer is descendant of a three generations of tailors and his education in fashion began at a very early age. Today Dries Van Noten creates works of art that would be interesting in any medium and his design sense is individual, unhindered by traditional tenants of design and so elegant.

www.driesvannoten.be

issue 91
Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2011. Exquisite Mosaics.
issue 90
Throwing some Curves into the Collection. Stella McCarthy Fall Winter 2011.
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