I always included a side trip into Bergdorf Goodman or Barneys during
a day spent visiting the world-class art galleries in New York City.
After pausing at the jewelry counter to admire the fine craftsmanship,
exquisite jewels, and innovative design I ascend to the designer floors
to experience the sophisticated amalgamations of divine prints, textures,
and opulence that designer Dries Van Noten whirls into exceptionally beautiful
frocks. With a single
vision the designer can employ simple contrasting insets that replay the geometry
of a silhouette and then mix his compositions with large color blocks, boldly
graphic prints, and luxurious flourishes that include fur appointments and shiny
embellishments to create his signature clash of sheer refinement.
At his very well received Winter 2011/2012 show the designer';s introduced
a night for day theme in which the accents of sparkle are intermixed into the
mosaic canvases. From stunning over coats and a muted gold suit complimented
by fur-lined lapels to shiny jacquard jackets, the collection is always feminine
and lovely. I desperately want to see the drop waist, multi-print, long dresses
on the red carpet – they are stunningly crafted and colorful as well as
being delicately fluid.
The show opened with an optical-art play on textures and the graphic
black and white ensemble signaled all in attendance to direct their attention
to the runway. With each step and turn the models revealed special details
in each of the perfectly tailored outfits. While references abound in the
designer oeuvre they are too numerous to mention and because each is a
part of the mosaics they meld to create timeless pieces that celebrate
a certain joie de vive for women of all ages. Even in his most quiet looks
the designer uses complimentary textures, and often very subtle asymmetry,
to infuse an elegant femininity that is as individual for each wearer as
his wildly successful mélanges are in their construction.
The Belgium born designer is descendant of a three generations of tailors
and his education in fashion began at a very early age. Today Dries Van Noten
creates works of art that would be interesting in any medium and his design
sense is individual, unhindered by traditional tenants of design and so elegant.