BY MARK ROTH
The beauty is all in the juxtaposition of textures, time references and
traditionalism in the Rag and Bone Men's Collection for fall/winter
2011.
Flashy dandies paraded down the runway in wide leg, seemingly traditionally
English trousers, some in tartan plaid head to toe. Beautiful plaid and
striped wools mixed amongst the layering to create richly English country
look; the kilts in the show were crafted to be slightly fuller then the
traditional style. A subtle green and brown wool kilt was a standout in
this parade of eclectic expression. The designers Marcus Wainwright and
David Neville reconstructed the kilt to include side frayed edges and complementary
panel insets. Adding to the fullness of their innovative kilt construction
was a manskirt in electric blue, complete with heather grey wool side pleated
panels, and shown with an exceptionally beautiful knit wool sweater and
a modern bomber-varsity jacket in matching electric blue on the body. The
dark velvet insets on the front of the jackets sleeves perfectly complemented
the dark urban-warrior padded and articulated legging, which dramatically
challenged the leg silhouette throughout the rest of the collection. The
interesting padded/articulated leggings were paired with a biker jacket
inspired sweater, also futuristically articulated in solid navy that added
bulk and stiffness that stunningly contrasted the fluid kilt it was paired
with.
While it may have caused a pause from the ironically stylish Duke of Windsor,
the designers incorporated familiar references to biker wear, varsity styles,
and ski wear into the collection. The references were subtle additions to
the overall loud statement proclaimed by the haberdashery – but it
updated traditionalism with a daring proclamation. It all was a very interesting
statement from the designers that began their highly regarded, and justifiably
so, business making clothes that could be worn everyday. Great applause to
the designers for challenging the jeans and T-shirt set. The kilts may not
catch on for daywear, but they looked great on the runway. This season the
designers are suggesting that layering is the way to individual expression
and it is ok for men to release their inner dandy and dress like an Englishman.
www.rag-bone.com |
